Perchten and Passau

My search for the Krampus has born no fruit. Sadness. I searched in the city – but too early. That night, Friday, the archery club in Ried had its’ Christmas party and, as one of the members arrived, he said that he saw two Perchten marching down the street. A chill went down my spine – a feeling like the devil had been out looking for me but had brushed passed my hiding place. Suddenly, I felt like a rabbit safe in its’ hole.

One night a year not being enough, there will be another “Perchten Lauf” (march of Perchten) in early January. I plan to be ready.

The Christmas party with the members of the club was a lot of fun. I get on well with them and I wonder if I would get along with archery people at home. It’s something to look into. If I can build up some skill, I can fit in with any archery club all over the world. Did you know that archery in South Korea is like football in America? They are supposedly wicked good – having won at the Olympics. And archery in Japan is a whole different ball of wax. Anyway…

On Saturday, I woke with a slightly sick feeling, like the top of my brain was smoldering in the ashes of a fire. I lay dozing, debating for a while: I’d planned on visiting Passau, a nearby town in Germany, and as I contemplated my options, I realized that Saturday was still the only day I could visit. I rolled out of bed and caught a train at noon. My connecting train was canceled and a bus was called (times like those, I REALLY like my German skills). I’m glad of the bus, because the route was breathtaking. Hills, small villages with tiled roofs, rivers, houses and castles that loom out over the water – for the first time in weeks, I felt like I was in Austria (when, in reality, I was in Germany).

Cut scene. Side note: My students ask me all the time: What do Americans think of Austria? Bell number one rings: Sound of Music. My gut tells me that Austria should have hills. My town, on the other hand, is in the 10% of Austria that is as flat as a penny. Go figure. Go ten minutes in any direction and you will find hills. But where I am, you are out of luck. *big heartfelt sigh* The result: I don’t know where I am. The dialect tells me “Austria” but the landscape of town tells me “Ohio” (and not the cool bits of Ohio that snuggle with West Virginia – I mean the boring bits that high-five Indiana).

I miss the Appalachians and the dribbly hills that ooze down into my part of Pennsylvania. With hills and trees, you feel secure. It’s a hard feeling to describe –the land wraps around you, drawing you into safety. In western Ohio, the land arches its’ back (like that silly yoga pose) and pushes you out, away, and towards the sky.

I was really glad to be back in the hills. On top of that, Passau is a gorgeous city. I had about one and a half hours of good light so I ran around taking photos. Passau has so many secret places – small alleyways, tiny shops and cafes, and a waterfront. The huge building featured at the center of town is Stefan’s Dom (Stefan’s Cathedral). Inside, you will find Europe’s largest Church organ. Outside, there is a really cute Christmas market. I ran into a teacher and his family there and we chatted for a bit.

It got dark fairly quickly. I walked slowly back to the train station, browsing shops and windows. Three hours was enough in the cold and wet. It’s funny how things work out because, after the bus ride, I met the TA of that town while waiting for my train. We chatted and swapped phone numbers – sometimes I feel so far from everything but really, we’re not that far apart at all.

Now I am at home and will maintain a relaxing day. Btw, new photos are up!